Hills: An Stac and Meith Bheinn
Date: Thursday 24th May 2018 to Saturday 26th May 2018
Company: Myself and Alan
Distance: 42km, Ascent: 2,325m
Time walking: 16Hrs 45Mins
There are 219 Scottish hills between
2,000ft and 2,500ft with a drop of at least 150m all round. These hills are
collectively known as the Grahams. I ascended my first Graham, the Hill of
Wirren, back in 2002. After completing the Munros, the Corbetts, the Donalds
and the Furths, I have mostly been concentrating on also trying to complete
a round of the Grahams.
Completing a round of the Grahams is not as
some might expect. The Munros are not the hardest simply because they are
the highest. To complete the Grahams you have to regularly get off the
beaten track, venture into some fairly remote parts of Scotland and get used
to being "Billy-no-mates" on the hill as all your friends are still doing
their Munros or Corbetts
November 2017, I ascended my 217th Graham leaving only two to complete the
round. The remaining two were however my nemesis in that despite pondering
over the map for countless hours on countless occasions, I could see no
simple or straight-forward way to tackle them. I debated doing the two hills
together or doing them seperately. I debated going in from Glenfinnan,
Arienskill or from Strathan. I debated one seriously long day or more than
one day via use of my tent, Pean bothy or Oban bothy.
equally remote Beinn a' Chaisgean Mor as my final Corbett on an absolutely
stunning, perfect day, I really needed a good weather window if my final two
Grahams were in any way going to compete with my final Corbett. That special
weather window presented itself this weekend
Thursday afternoon, I finished work at 16:00 and subsequently drove to
Strathan via the rollercoaster road along Loch Arkaig. I arrived at Strathan
shortly after 20:00, got suited and booted and set off with an exceedingly
heavy pack towards Pean bothy. I always carry way more than I need! On
this occasion I did however decide to leave my DSLR at home and rely on my
iPhone for pics. I hoped I would not regret this decision.
From walk start to finish there was nothing but wall-to-wall blue sky.
Streap through the window of the ruin near Strathan:
Strathan with Glenfinnan hills beyond:
Beyond the first kilometre I was into new territory as I had not
previously visited Glen Pean. I enjoyed the walk through the forest as the
excellent track made the job of carrying the heavy pack so much easier.
Shortly before descending to Pean bothy, I did regret not having my
DSLR. I heard a rustling in the trees and expected another deer to jump out
as several had already done during my walk through the forest. But no, a
badger stood ten feet in front of me, we had a good look at each other and
it then disappeared into the undergrowth. If I had my DLSR, I could have had
it in hand and photo taken with 2 seconds. With my phone, I had to unzip the
case, unlock the phone, go into the camera app and then take the photo. This
must have taken around 10 seconds by which time the badger was long gone.
Glen Pean forestry track:
Around 21:30, I could see the glow of the sun beginning to set in the
distance. It was a lovely sight.
Approaching sunset on descent to
During the descent to the bothy I made a schoolboy error in not checking
the map. I followed a good track leading to the river which I crossed only
to have to re-cross it again a few minutes later. There was no need to cross
On arrival at the bothy, I was pleased to find I had the
whole bothy to myself. I went in, had a good look around and selected the
nicest of the available rooms.
Arrival at Glen Peam bothy (An Stac in
I got my bed ready for the night and suspended my rucksack from the
rafters with my food encased in a metal tin inside as there is almost always
a bothy mouse.
Inside Pean bothy:
I think I fell asleep around 23:00 but had quite a disturbed night. I
heard a strange noise in the room next door so I popped through for a look.
There was a bat flying around inside the room so I opened the door to let it
out. I then went back to bed. An hour or so later I heard the same noise
again but closer. There was now a bat flying around the inside of my room. I
decided to just ignore it and the noise stopped after a few minutes so it
must have found a way out. Around 03:00, I awoke again to a different sound,
the sound of a mouse.
I heard the mouse scuffling about and shone my
headtorch in the general direction of the noise. The noise stopped. I could
however see the mouse's tail moving so I got up and continued to shine the
light in the direction of the mouse. I guess I may have dazzled it as it
made no attempt to escape. Instead it simply froze presenting me with the
opportunity to take its photo. Thank you Mr Mouse.
Awakened at 03:00
by the sound of a bothy mouse having some Super Noodles:
I awoke again around 06:00 and decided to get up, pack and safely stow
away my overnight belongings until I returned later in the day. I then took
a chair outside and waited for my friend Alan to arrive who would be joining
me for my ascent of An Stac and Meith Bheinn. Alan's timing was impeccable
as we agreed to meet at 08:00 and he arrived exactly at 08:00.
Sunrise from Pean bothy:
Selfie outside Pean bothy:
After also safely stowing away Alan's overnight belongings, we set off
on what would turn out to be an epic day on the hill.
section of walk beyond Pean bothy was fairly wet underfoot. We followed the
River Pean as it wound its way towards Lochan Leum an t-Sagairt.
Following the River Pean towards Lochan Leum an t-Sagairt:
Following the River Pean:
On reaching Lochan Leum an t-Sagairt we had to backtrack a little to get
across the river. We knew we had to skirt Lochan Leum an t-Sagairt to the
south. Do not attempt to skirt the loch to the north as there are various
crags and cliffs on that side of the loch.
At Lochan Leum an
To skirt the loch we followed a rising path the start of which is marked
by a small cairn. The path is narrow and precarious and is definitely no
place for a fall, so take care if coming this way.
Following a high,
narrow, precarious path to the south-side of Lochan Leum an t-Sagairt:
Subsequent to the precarious path we crossed another couple of
kilometres of grass and much wetness to reach the start of the second tricky
section of the day. We had to negotiate numerous large boulders which would
appear to have resulted from a rockfall at some time in the distant past.
Arriving at the rockfall area circa two kilometres beyond Lochan Leum an
In between the two sections of rockfall there was a wet area which was
fairly easily skirted on the left.
Wet area between two rockfalls:
After negotiating the second area of rockfall we made our way towards
the stalker's path leading up towards the Munro, Sgurr nan Coireachan. It
was a delight to find and follow this excellent path albeit only briefly.
On crossing a burn, we stopped for the first time to refill our water
bottles which I sterlised with my Steripen - a great bit of kit that uses
ultra-voilet light to rid water of bacteria, protozoa and viruses.
Ascending the stalker's path leading towards Sgurr nan Coireachan:
Having already been walking for a few hours, it was good to start
gaining height as we ascended to the summit of Cnoc Gorm and then beyond
towards An Stac.
Looking back towards Lochan Leum an t-Sagairt during
ascent of Cnoc Gorm:
An Stac was now looking not too distant and certainly achievable. It was
however boiling hot and we knew that Meith Bheinn lay at least six
kilometres beyond An Stac with a considerable drop in between.
Stac from Cnoc Gorm:
The ascent of An Stac was not difficult from this side. If you want an
easy approach to An Stac you definitely want to do it from the east.
Ascending An Stac:
The bothy in Glen Pean was now a considerable way off, with our starting
point at Strathan a further 6km beyond that. It felt great to be in such a
remote area but I was glad of company as I had had no mobile signal
whatsoever since Loch Arkaig the night previous.
Looking back towards
Glen Pean during ascent of An Stac:
It was fantastic to eventually reach the summit of An Stac which I have
to say is an awesome hill with spectacular views. It definitely makes it
into my Top 50 hills and is one of the best Grahams along with the likes of
Suilven, Stac Pollaidh and Ben More Coigach.
We didn't spend long at
the summit, just enough time to take a few photos, have a bite to eat and a
drink and also time to post up a photo on Facebook and Twitter. We had 4G!
Loch Morar from the summit of An Stac:
Alan at the summit of An Stac:
Myself at the summit of An Stac:
The descent from An Stac was however far from straight-forward. We
initially tried to follow the ridge in descent but arrived at the top of a
small cliff which can be seen at the top of the hill in the next photo.
After considerable searching we found a fairly good way down that was mostly
grass following a deer track down the hill. The way off is to the left in
the following photo.
Looking back to An Stac:
On reaching the col between Meith Bheinn and An Stac, we were conscious
that time was not really on our side if we wanted to get back before dark.
We stopped long enough to again refill our water bottles and sterilise the
water before we began our ascent of Meith Bheinn.
The initial ascent
of Meith Bheinn was straight-forward but via fairly rough ground. We saw and
made our way towards the top showing in the next photo thinking it was the
summit only to find the true summit lay circa 1km beyond!
towards the East top of Meith Bheinn during ascent of Meith Bhein:
Not great to think you have reached the summit to see we still had this
far to go .
Looking towards the summit of Meith Bheinn:
We reached the summit of Meith Bheinn a full nine hours after setting
off from Pean bothy. We also knew that we had at least five hours to walk
back to Pean bothy. A fourteen hour day!
We therefore didn't spend
long at the summit. Alan congratulated myself on completing the Grahams, we
took a few pics and I again posted a pic up on Facebook and Twitter. I can't
believe I carried a half bottle of whisky up there to forget I had it in my
rucksack. Never mind, we would enjoy it back at the bothy and alcohol was
probably the last thing we needed given how hot it was and how dehydrated we
View from the summit of Meith Bheinn:
View from the summit of Meith Bheinn:
Myself at the summit of Meith Bheinn:
Alan at the summit of Meith Bheinn:
While Meith Bheinn is perhaps not as nice a hill as neighbouring An
Stac, it is arguably a better viewpoint.
Panorama from the summit of
From the summit of Meith Bheinn we made our way back down to the col
where we had refilled our bottles a few hours previous. We then followed a
stalker's path round to Oban bothy. By the time we reached Oban bothy, at
19:00, I really wished we were staying there instead of at Pean bothy, as
Pean bothy was still a three hour walk away.
Visit to Oban bothy:
We therefore did not get too comfortable at Oban bothy and were on our
way after a welcome ten minute break out of the sun.
From Oban bothy, we continued to follow the stalker's path leading to
the rockfall area that we had passed many hours previous.
back to Loch Morar during the walk back to Pean bothy:
Once onto familiar terrain, covered previously in the day, it was just a
case of heads down and plod on, that is until I misjudged an area of wetness
and went into bog to just above my knees. I was glad I had carried in a full
change of clothes which were awaiting me in Pean bothy.
arriving back at Pean bothy around 22:00 we got changed, had our tea, some
whisky and then crashed out.
The following morning we set off a few
minutes apart as I walked out and Alan cycled out.