Hills: Meall Glas Choire, Mullach Coire nan Nead, Beinn Eibhinn, Aonach Beag,
Geal-charn and Sgor Iutharn
Date: Friday 16th October to Saturday 17th October 2020
Company: Myself and Ann-Marie
Distance: 40.3km, Ascent: 1200m
Time: 12Hrs 35Mins
Yesterday morning, we both left home around 4am
driving to Tulloch Station to catch the 8.15 train to remote Corrour
Station.
Corrour Station is the highest mainline railway station in
the UK. The station, and nearby Leum Uilleum, gained fame when they were
featured in the film Trainspotting.
On reaching Corrour Station we
took a number of photographs before commencing our walk.
From the station we followed the track leading towards Loch Ossian. On
reaching the track junction, we decided to walk the track to the south of
Loch Ossian on the way to the hills and walk the track to the north of Loch
Ossian on the walk out. The track to the north of the loch is of higher
quality than the track to the south.
On the track leading to Loch
Ossian:
On reaching the turn off leading towards the Youth Hostel, we took a short
diversion to have a look at the Youth Hostel before returning to the main
track skirting round the loch. I last stayed at Loch Ossian Youth Hostel in
2008.
Loch Ossian from the Youth Hostel:
Loch Ossian Youth Hostel:
Beyond the Youth Hostel we followed the track stopping on numerous occasions
to photograph the beautiful loch. As we were both carrying tents and other
camping gear we took our time walking round the loch unlike many who attempt
to run round the entire loch in under one hour
.
Loch
Ossian:
Loch Ossian:
Loch Ossian:
While I had visited Loch Ossian a number of times previously, this was
Ann-Marie's first visit. This was however my first visit in Autumn having
previously visited only in summer and winter. The trees are lovely in
autumn.
Beinn na Lap:
On reaching the far end of Loch Ossian we took the track leading towards
Bealach Dubh and beyond to Culra.
Looking back along the length of
Loch Ossian:
My Ordnance Survey Landranger map suggested we would be on a footpath. The
map is however outdated in that a wide good quality track continues to a
nice Hydro Electric Power Station and beyond to a small hydro scheme. The
building is dated MMXV (2015).
Hydro Electric Power Station:
Small Hydro Scheme:
Beyond the small hydro scheme the path deteriorated significantly so we took
to the hillside, as intended, to ascend Beinn Eibhinn via Meall Glas Choire.
During the ascent, also as intended, we stopped to pitch our tents and
leave behind much of the content of our rucksacks to make the rest of the
walk easier on our backs and shoulders. It had been my intention to pitch-up
far enough up the hillside to get a view of Loch Ossian and to witness the
sunset. Alas, we did not return before sunset.
Tents pitched on lower
slopes of Meall Glas Choire:
During the ascent I decided to abandon Ann-Marie as it was my intention to
ascend both of Beinn Eibhinn's Munro Tops and Ann-Marie wasn't keen to do
likewise. I therefore stepped-up a gear and sped-off uphill agreeing to
re-meet at the summit of Beinn Eibhinn.
Looking back towards Loch
Ossian during ascent of Meall Glas Choire:
The trackless ascent of Meall Glas Choire became somewhat easier on reaching
the upper slopes when the heather and grass became much shorter.
Ascending Meall Glas Choire:
Looking back towards Loch Ossian:
On reaching the summit of Meall Glas Choire, I stopped long enough to take a
quick photograph before continuing on towards the next Munro Top, Mullach
Coire nan Nead.
Two days previous to undertaking this walk, MWIS had
suggested 90% cloud-free Munros. However, the day previous the forecast
changed fairly significantly to 60% cloud-free Munros. Where we were
walking, the reality was 0% cloud-free Munros. We would be walking in clag
between all of the summits
.
At the
summit of Meall Glas Choire:
I soon regretted not carrying my DSLR as I spotted a beautiful Red-backed
Shrike. This was the first time I have seen this species which is apparently
quite rare with only 250 visiting the UK each year on winter passage.
As I wasn't carrying any water, I stopped to fill my water bottles at
one of the burns below the summit of Mullach Coire nan Nead. I drank almost
a litre before leaving Tulloch Station so was well hydrated at the outset.
On catching-up with Ann-Marie, I would sterilise the water with my Steripen.
Mullach Coire nan Nead:
Mullach Coire nan Nead is a nicer summit than Meall Glas Choire. With both
Munro Tops now ascended, I made my way towards Beinn Eibhinn with a view to
now catching-up with Ann-Marie.
At the summit of Mullach Coire nan
Nead:
Limited view from Mullach Coire nan Nead:
I met up again with Ann-Marie at the summit of Beinn Eibhinn where I stopped
for around ten minutes to have a good drink and put on an extra layer.
At the summit of Beinn Eibhinn:
I checked the map before leaving the summit and could see that the next
summit was not far off albeit there was a short, sharp descent and ascent
between the summits.
Descent from Beinn Eibhinn towards Aonach Beag:
On reaching the summit of Aonach Beag we stopped only long enough to take
some photographs before continuing on our way. Again, the next summit was
not that far off.
At the summit of Aonach Beag:
The ascent of Geal-charn was pleasant via fairly gentle grass slopes.
Ascent towards the summit of Geal-charn:
While it was great to reach the summit of our third and final Munro, it was
disappointing to still be walking in low-cloud and getting no views of the
surrounding hills.
At the summit of Geal-charn:
To return to the tents we now had two options, i) return back over the
summits or ii) drop down to Bealach Dubh and walk back alongside the Uisge
Labhair. Both options had advantages and disadvantages. Returning via the
summits would be via fairly good paths but would involve more ascent and
descent whereas dropping down to Bealach Dubh would involve walking back via
an awful quality 'path'.
We opted for the descent to Bealach Dubh
allowing for a visit to the remote Munro Top, Sgor Iutharn. While I was keen
to visit this top, I knew this would be pushing it timewise to get back to
the tents before sunset. We were both carrying headtorches and spare
batteries so not a problem.
Sgor Iutharn:
On reaching the col below Geal-charn, we made our way out to very remote
Sgor Iutharn. As we progressed towards Sgor Iutharn, the cloud began to
start lifting. Just my luck that it didn't do so while up on the Munro
summits .
Loch an Sgoir from Sgor Iutharn:
At the summit of Sgor Iutharn:
Looking across to Ben Alder capped in cloud:
The main advantage to walking out to do Sgor Iutharn was the nice gentle
ridge leading from Sgor Iutharn down to Bealach Dubh. On reaching Bealach
Dubh we followed the excellent path leading towards Ben Alder Cottage until
it was no longer advantageous to do so.
Just beyond Bealach Dubh:
Heading back towards distant Loch Ossian:
When the good path began skirting off in the wrong direction, we left the
path to reach the Uisge Labhair which we crossed and then followed back
towards the tents. While there is a path marked on the map running next to
the Uisge Labhair it is a 'path' in the loosest sense. It is almost
non-existent and of appalling quality. If coming this way, be prepared for
some very rough walking.
Looking back to Bealach Dubh:
As we made our way back we were so focused on not falling or snapping an
ankle we didn't take photographs. We cursed the path numerous times as we
stumbled along. We made it back to the tents shortly after sunset without
having to use our headtorches.
After drinking a couple of coffees, we
both retired to our tents for an early night. Every time I awoke during the
night I could hear stags roaring sometimes in the distance and sometimes
quite nearby. What a wonderful sound.
At 4.30, I stuck my head out of
the tent to see totally clear skies with an almost infinite number of stars
visible above. I again regretted not having carried my DSLR but at the same
time it was nice to just lie and look up without bothering with photographs.
During the next half hour of lying with my head stuck outside of the tent I
saw one shooting star.
As Ann-Marie was also awake, we decided to get
up shortly after 5am, pack-up our tents and commence the walk back to
Corrour Station.
We were packed and walking by 5.30; headtorches
essential.
As I was only carrying my iPhone, it was not possible to
take photographs until not long before sunrise.
Loch Ossian:
We arrived back at Corrour Station just before 8.30.
Corrour Station:
Corrour Station:
If visiting this area, I would strongly recommend visiting the Corrour
Station House restaurant - a warm, friendly service with great food. The
Lorne Sausage is made from venison. We spent a couple of hours in the
restaurant eating and drinking until the arrival of our train. I had seven
cups of tea to rehydrate
.
Nice
breakfast in Corrour Station House restaurant:
Our train arrived on time at 11.21 and fifteen minutes later were back at
Tulloch Station.
Always good to spend a night out on the hills. Even
better when there is a nice bar/restaurant at the end
.