Hills: Sgurr nan Coireachan and Sgurr Thuilm
Date: Saturday 28th November 2020
Company: Just myself
Distance: 24.7km, Ascent: 1395m
Time: 9Hrs
According to WalkHighlands, this walk normally takes
between 9 and 12 hours. I knew it would definitely not take me 12hrs,
however with only 7.5hrs daylight available at this time of year I opted for
a headtorch start.
On arrival in Glenfinnan I parked at the National
Trust Visitor Centre. Parking at the visitor centre normally costs £3.50 for
the day but the parking machine is not currently operational.
From the visitor centre, after walking a short distance along the road
to reach the west side of the River Finnan, I followed the private road
leading towards and beyond the Glenfinnan Viaduct. On reaching the viaduct,
alas it was still too dark to take photos.
As I made my way towards
the bothy I was passed by a cyclist who would also be undertaking the same
circuit of hills but in an anti-clockwise direction. We shouted good
mornings to each other as the cyclist whizzed past; we would meet again
later on the ridge.
In normal circumstances, I would have visited the
bothy however all MBA bothies are currently closed. I am not sure I agree
with the decision to close bothies. I totally understand why bothies have
been closed i.e. to prevent people from numerous households potentially
meeting and not being able to social-distance, however mountain bothies are
also used as emergency shelters i.e. for unplanned, non-routine use. Total
bummer if you have an accident on the hill, end up benighted, are able to
make your way to a nearby bothy but find it closed and boarded-up because
some people apparently can't be trusted to be sensible.
Coire
Thollaidh (Corryhully) Bothy:
Bothy closed :
Beyond the bothy I continued along the track until reaching a small sign
waymarking the start of the path ascending Sgurr nan Coireachan. I followed
the path which at first skirts the ridge before leading onto the ridge.
Looking back along Glen Finnan:
The
Landranger map shows a path for the initial ascent only. I found and
followed a path from base to summit.
Onto the SE ridge of Sgurr nan
Coireachan:
During the ascent it was disappointing to see so much cloud. MWIS had
advised of 90% cloud-free Munros in the North-West and West Highlands but I
must have selected a walk in the10% of Munros which were not cloud-free
. Regardless, I
was enjoying the walk.
Glen Finnan:
As
I made my way up Sgurr nan Coireachan, I could see the cyclist making his
way up Sgurr Thuilm.
Looking across to Sgurr Thuilm and Streap:
Ascending Sgurr nan Coireachan:
Glen Finnan:
The
ascent became steeper and rockier as I progressed up the hill. I had to take
care on several small scrambling sections as the rock was very wet and
slippery.
Steep ascent:
It
was with some relief that I eventually reached the summit of Sgurr nan
Coireachan. It had taken me longer than anticipated to reach the summit so I
decided to step up a gear for the undulating ridge between the two Munros.
Cloud inversion below the summit of Sgurr nan Coireachan:
At
the summit of Sgurr nan Coireachan:
During the descent of Sgurr nan Coireachan there was one short down-scramble
beyond which there was no more hands-on for the remainder of the walk.
Looking back at rocky section on ridge:
On
reaching the 826m top of Meall an Tarmachain I again met the cyclist who
must have been moving much faster than myself. This gave me some comfort
that the terrain ahead was likely easier than what I had thus far
negotiated.
Fleeting glimpses through the cloud:
The
ridge between Sgurr nan Coireachan and Sgurr Thuilm involves several ascents
and descents. As I made my way along the ridge I met a group of three
walkers who were also undertaking an anti-clockwise circuit.
On the
section of ridge between Beinn Garbh and the 858m top at last the cloud
began to break up providing my first views of surrounding hills.
Views to the north starting to open up:
Above the clouds:
Having been walking for circa 5.5hrs solid, I decided to stop for a five
minute break to take photos and have some food and water.
Panorama
south towards the hills of Ardgour:
Looking south:
During the final ascent of Sgurr Thuilm I was passed quickly by two lasses
who were running up and down the hill. Thanks for making me feel really old
.
Loch
Arkaig:
Fantastic to get great views from the summit having been walking in cloud
for much of the walk.
At the summit of Sgurr Thuilm:
Looking back along the undulating ridge to Sgurr nan Coireachan:
The
descent of Sgurr Thuilm was very straightforward down steep grassy slopes. I
followed the path for much of the descent which is seriously wet underfoot
especially in the lower slopes.
Looking back to Sgurr Thuilm:
I
was soon back onto the Glen Finnan track which I followed back out past the
bothy and viaduct.
A lone stag in the mist:
Passing under the Glenfinnan Viaduct:
I
reached the car 9hrs after setting off but will admit this was walking
pretty-much without stopping and not hanging around.