Hills: Sgurr Mhic Chionnich
Date: Friday 3rd September 2021
Company: Just myself
Time: 6Hrs
The weekend weather forecast for Skye looked
awesome, the reality was however somewhat different
. Given the great
forecast, the night previous I had been pondering over a number of potential
routes for ascending Sgurr Mhic Choinnich, my one remaining second round
Munro in the Cuillin.
Option 1, was to ascend to the top of the Great
Stone Chute, drop a short distance down the other side then head up Sgurr
Thearlaich, descend with care to the bealach (possible abseils) then along
Hart's Ledge (Collie's Ledge) to the summit of Sgurr Mhic Chionnich. Grade:
Moderate.
Option 2, was to ascend roughly two-thirds of the way up
the Great Stone Chute and from there cut off left across Bomb Alley to reach
the bealach before heading along Hart's Ledge (Collie's Ledge) and then to
the summit. Grade: 2.
Option 3, was to approach from the north by
first ascending Sgurr Dearg and from there head down the fairly loose path
next to An Stac to get to Sgurr Mhic Chionnich. Grade: 2.
Finally,
Option 4 was to take technically the simplest route to the summit by going
up and down the An Stac screes. Grade: 2.
On waking on Friday morning and seeing thick
cloud down to c.300m, I knew route-finding was going to be "interesting". I
would be on my own and would potentially struggle to find the correct route
certainly for the first three options. I therefore reluctantly set off to
undertake Option 4, the least technical route to the summit. Please note
that even the least technical route to the summit of Sgurr Mhic Choinnich is
not a walk in the park as it involves fairly sustained Grade 2 scrambling
along a narrow and in places exposed ridge. In my view this is the second
most difficult of the Cuillin Munros with the In Pin taking first place.
However, on the In Pin you have the security of a rope whereas generally you
do not ascending Sgurr Mhic Choinnich.
Please note that a compass can
be unreliable in the Cuillin due to magnetism in the rock. Please also note
that my GPS went haywire several times during this walk I suspect due to not
getting line of sight with a suffiicient number of satellites due to being
hemmed-in by steep coires.
As my club had booked the Glen Brittle
Memorial Hut for the weekend, I parked-up for the day in the hut car park.
From the hut I followed the path directly opposite which is used for ascents
of Sgurr Dearg and approaches to Coire Lagan and Coir a' Ghrunnda.
Parked-up in the Glen Brittle Memorial Hut car park:
Bridge over the Allt Coire na Banachdich:
During the initial ascent I was soon overtaken by a guided party heading for
Sgurr Dearg for an ascent of the In Pin.
Track beyond the bridge:
En-route to Coire Lagan I passed Loch an Fhir-bhallaich.
Loch an
Fhir-bhallaich:
On approaching lower Coire Lagan I knew it wouldn't be long before I would
be into the cloud and visibility would be pants.
Approaching lower
Coire Lagan:
It was disappointing to not get a good view of Sron na Ciche which is the
most impressive rock face in the Cuillin. Seeing Sron na Ciche always
reminds me of the film Highlander. One of the sword fights in Highlander
took place atop a prominent rock called the Cioch which is high up on Sron
na Ciche. Since then, numerous climbing parties have carried up plastic
swords to re-enact the scene. There can be only one!
Sron na
Ciche:
Ascent towards Coire Lagan:
To get up into Coire Lagan there is a short, easy scramble to the left side
of the coire. A short distance beyond lies Lochan Coire Lagan. A visit to
Lochan Coire Lagan is a worthwhile objective even if you do not progress any
further. It is a great place to sit and watch the climbers on Sron na Ciche.
Short, easy scramble to reach Coire Lagan:
On arrival at Lochan Coire Lagan I could barely see the lochan as visibility
was now circa ten metres. I no longer regretted ruling out the more
challenging ascent options.
Lochan Coire Lagan:
While having a few minutes rest in Coire Lagan to catch my breath and put on
my climbing helmet, the cloud temporarily dissipated enough to catch a
glimpse of the bottom of the Great Stone Chute. Also, two guided parties
arrived and immediately started heading-up the screes.
The start of
the Great Stone Chute momentarily appearing through the cloud:
Looking back from initial ascent of the An Stac screes:
I also commenced up the screes sticking as much as possible to the rock such
that it was not two steps up and three slides back on the scree.
Sticking as much as possible to rock instead of scree in ascent:
During the ascent of the screes I overtook the guided parties a short
distance below the ridge when they stopped to leave their rucksacks which
they would collect on their return. On reaching the ridge, I decided to do
likewise depositing my rucksack and having a good drink as it would likely
be an hour at least before getting back to the rucksack
Onto the
Cuillin ridge:
I decided not to try to overtake the guided parties in that i) I was in no
hurry and ii) it would make route finding easier by following guides who had
undoubtedly done this route many more times than myself. I was unroped for
this ascent and needed to make sure every handhold and foothold was sound as
to fall several hundred metres off this ridge onto rocks below would mean
certain death.
Commencing the scramble along to the summit of Sgurr
Mhic Choinnich:
As I was concentrating on scrambling as well as keeping an eye on those
ahead to watch no rocks were dislodged, I didn't take any photos until
reaching the summit.
While I absolutely would have managed this ridge
on my own it was nice to not be on my own up there in almost zero
visibility.
Roped parties getting their photo taken at the summit of
Sgurr Mhic Choinnich:
Once the roped parties departed, I stayed at the summit a little longer
before also commencing my descent. I soon caught back up with the roped
parties but again was in no hurry to try to overtake them.
On my own
at the summit:
Descent back along the ridge towards the top of the screes:
Once back at the top of the screes I thanked the guides for their
route-finding which certainly got me along the ridge more quickly than had I
been working out the best route on my own. I then commenced my descent
of the An Stac screes while the guided parties continued on along the ridge
towards Sgurr Dearg.
During the ascent of the screes I stuck to the
rock as much as possible. However, during the descent it is easiest to go
directly down the middle almost skiing down the scree.
Coming down
the An Stac screes:
Descending the An Stac screes:
With some relief I reached the base of the screes and noticed that my boots
had turned from green to white. The Cuillin are great for wrecking boots.
Boots post-descent:
It was now a case of simply retracing my in-bound route back to the Glen
Brittle Memorial Hut.
Looking back towards the An Stac screes:
At Lochan Coire Lagan:
An Stac screes (left) and the Great Stone Chute (right) now visible from
Lochan Coire Lagan:
Descent towards Loch an Fhir-bhallaich:
On passing the Eas Mor waterfall I knew I was almost back to the starting
point.
Eas Mor waterfall:
Fantastic to complete the Cuillin Munros for a second time albeit it would
have been nice to get some views.
The following photo, which is not
my own, shows the ridge out to this summit.
Footnote - the Cuillin
ridge requires the utmost respect. Route-finding can be a challenge in good
visibility never mind in zero visibility. If you have the skills and
experience there is no place better. If you don't, consider hiring a guide.