Date: 5th and 6th August 2022
Company: Myself and Ann-Marie
Distance: 43.3km, Ascent: 1545m
Time: 12Hrs 30Mins
Some Munros require more effort than others to ascend; remote Ben Alder and Beinn Bheoil are two such Munros.
I first ascended Ben Alder and Beinn Bheoil back in June 2002 with two friends from the Cairngorm Club. For that ascent, we cycled in from Dalwhinnie as far as Culra where we camped for two nights. We undertook a clockwise circuit ascending Beinn Bheoil then Ben Alder with a descent via the Long Leachas ridge.
During recent weeks, I have been pondering over the map for my re-ascent of Ben Alder and Beinn Bheoil. Would I undertake these hills from Dalwhinnie, from Corrour or from Rannoch? As I have enjoyed ascending many of my second round Munros via different routes, I opted for an ascent from Rannoch.
Yesterday morning, we drove to Rannoch Lodge where there is limited parking at the start of the track. Once suited and booted, we set off laden with heavy packs for our ascent of Ben Alder and Beinn Bheoil with the intention of wild camping at Bealach Breabag.
Route:
The track from Rannoch Lodge is good quality and very scenic. After the first couple of kilometres we passed a lovely small lochan.
Nice lochan a couple of kilometres beyond starting point:
Despite passing through much forestry, thanks to the low temperature we were not pestered by midge or flies. To the west I could see Sron Smeur (a Marilyn) and Beinn Pharlagain (a Corbett) both of which I have ascended previously from Rannoch.
View west towards Sron Smeur and Beinn Pharlagain:
After walking several kilometres we got our first distant views of Ben Alder and Beinn Bheoil. They still looked a long way off
.First sight of distant Ben Alder and Beinn Bheoil:
While walking through the forestry, views were limited; the views improved significantly on reaching the shore of Loch Ericht.
Loch Ericht:
Loch Ericht from bridge over Cam Chriochan:
There are several nice beaches along the shore of Loch Ericht.
One of several nice beaches at the shore of Loch Ericht:
After walking circa twelve kilometres, the good track comes to an end and the final two kilometres to reach Ben Alder Cottage are somewhat boggy.
Onto the final two kilometres of track leading to Ben Alder Cottage:
One of the benefits of approaching Ben Alder from the south is passing Ben Alder Cottage, a nice remote bothy not frequented by your average ned.
Arriving at Ben Alder Cottage:
On reaching the bothy we spent around twenty minutes inside having a look round, signing the bothy book and having a bit of a rest. It was fine to take off the packs for a while. While in the bothy we debated whether to stay in the bothy or use the tent. Having carried the tent in, it made sense to make use of it. The tent would allow us to spend the evening on the mountain and would allow for an out and back to Ben Alder and an out and back to Beinn Bheoil from our pitch.
Inside Ben Alder Cottage:
Inside Ben Alder Cottage:
Always nice to find a bothy poem, this one on the table top.
Table top poem inside Ben Alder Cottage:
Estate map inside Ben Alder Cottage:
Nice to briefly visit the bothy:
From the bothy, after having a brief chat with one of the estate workers, we set off towards Bealach Breabag. The ascent was fairly straight-forward.
Looking back to Loch Ericht during ascent towards Bealach Breabag:
Ascent to Bealach Breabag:
As we gained height we could feel the strength of the wind increasing. Based on the forecasted wind direction, our pitch for the night would however be sheltered by the bulk of Ben Alder.
Looking back to Loch Ericht:
On reaching Bealach Breabag, I pitched the tent and we then emptied almost all of the contents of our rucksacks inside allowing for light packs out and back to both mountains.
My old, trusty TNF Westwind is still going strong. A great buy.
Tent pitched at Bealach Breabag:
Ben Alder from Bealach Breabag:
We opted for a fairly direct ascent of Ben Alder, which was steep.
Looking down to tent and across to Sron Coire na h-Iolaire during ascent of Ben Alder:
Loch Ericht from the slopes of Ben Alder:
We reached the ridge with some relief and then walked round the rim of large Garbh Choire towards the summit.
Onto the ridge:
On reaching the summit we stopped long enough to take a few photos before returning back to Bealach Breabag.
At the summit trig point and shelter atop Ben Alder:
Myself atop Ben Alder:
Photo I was taking in above pic:
We passed Lochan a' Garbh Choire which is the highest lochan in the UK.
Lochan a' Garbh Choire:
From high Ben Alder, Beinn Bheoil looked real small.
Looking across Loch a' Bhealaich Bheithe to Beinn Bheoil:
Impressive cliffs of Garbh Choire:
During our descent from Ben Alder we stopped to refill our water bottles in one of the burns. After sterilising the water, we returned to the tent.
Having looked at the weather forecast while up on Ben Alder, I could see that the forecast had changed for the worse and while we knew winds would be strengthening in the evening, I could also see that the following day (today) was now forecast to be a day of heavy rain. Given the change in forecast, it made good sense to continue on to also ascend Beinn Bheoil instead of leaving it for the following day. We therefore set off to also ascend Beinn Bheoil.
Sron Coire na h-Iolaire from Bealach Breabag:
To get to Beinn Bheoil we first ascended the Munro Top, Sron Coire na h-Iolaire.
Beinn Bheoil and Loch Ericht from the summit of Sron Coire na h-Iolaire:
While walking from Sron Coire na h-Iolaire there was a mix of sun and showers resulting in a nice rainbow.
Beinn Bheoil:
Beinn Bheoil provides great views of Ben Alder's spectacular Garbh Choire.
Garbh Choire:
Loch a' Bhealaich Bheithe:
The wind was already circa 30mph. Looking back I could see my tent at the bealach but it is difficult to make it out in the next photo.
Looking back towards Sron Coire na h-Iolaire and Bealach Breabag:
Can you see it now?
:
Ascending final slopes of Beinn Bheoil:
It was great to reach the summit of Beinn Bheoil from which we returned again via Sron Coire na h-Iolaire before descending to the tent at Bealach Breabag.
At the summit of Beinn Bheoil:
Once back to the tent, we boiled some water for a hot drink then settled down as we were both tired due to the early start, weight of packs and long walk.
Back to the tent at Bealach Breabag:
On checking the forecast again this morning, I could see that heavy rain was due to start at 7am and continue until 12 noon. At 5am, the showers had stopped so that provided an ideal opportunity to pack up camp, of course without leaving a trace, and get back down as far as Ben Alder Cottage before the forecasted heavy rain.
During the descent we again collected some water for drinking during our walk out. A UV steripen is a wonderful piece of kit.
Sterilising water using a Steripen:
During the descent, and long walk back out to the car, we had numerous showers but none of them were particularly heavy.
Descent from Bealach Breabag:
Approaching Ben Alder Cottage:
As the Alder Burn water level had risen due to the recent rainfall, we opted to use the bridge to get across which wasn't necessary the day previous.
Crossing the bridge over the Alder Burn:
I think all of our decisions were spot-on as looking back we could see Ben Alder now engulfed in cloud.
Ben Alder now hidden in cloud:
The walk out to the car was as long as expected. It was great to reach the car and get our boots and packs off.
12 Munros remaining to complete Round 2.