Date: Saturday 3rd September 2022
Company: Just myself
Distance: 15.5km, Ascent: 970m
Time: 7Hrs
On Saturday morning, I set off from the Glen Brittle Hut with ten other Moray Mountaineering Club members towards Coir' a' Ghrunnda. On reaching Coir' a' Ghrunnda our group would split to undertake several different objectives. My objective was to ascend Sgurr Sgumain, a Munro Top of Sgurr Alasdair.
Sgurr Sgumain is most frequently ascended from Coire Lagan via the Sgumain Stone Shoot or via the flank of Sron na Ciche. Having read that the Sgumain Stone Chute is not pleasant, I opted instead for an ascent from Coir' a' Ghrunnda.
All objectives involving the ridge would be difficult as a result of winds averaging 40mph and gusting to 60mph. While such strong winds are not ideal for the ridge we were all prepared to back-off as necessary.
Route:
The Cuillin at sunrise from the Glen Brittle Hut:
It was great to set off walking from the hut without having to drive anywhere. However, as is frequently the case when walking with the club, they set off walking at about Warp 9 and kept up that pace throughout the walk-in and ascent of Coir' a' Ghrunnda. Stop for a minute to tie a bootlace or take off a fleece and you would be playing catch-up
.As we traversed round below the coires, we passed impressive Coire Lagan which I last entered in 2021 to ascend Sgurr Mhic Choinnich for my second round.
Coire Lagan:
The next photo shows the many erratics passed on skirting round to Coir' a' Ghrunnda.
Moray Mountaineering Club members on the path heading round to Coir' a' Ghrunnda:
To ascend Coir' a' Ghrunnda, I have always found it best to stick to the wall at the left of the coire. As we gained height, views looking back to Soay, Eigg and Rum looked increasingly wonderful.
Soay, Eigg and Rum:
As per most of the Black Cuillin coires, Coir' a' Ghrunnda is very rocky with lots of wonderful gabbro as well as some less wonderful basalt.
Ascending lower Coir' a' Ghrunndha:
Ascending into upper Coire a' Ghrunnda simply to see Loch Coir' a' Ghrunnda is a worthwhile walk in itself. Coir' a' Ghrunnda is my second favourite Scottish coire after Coire Mhic Fhearchair on Beinn Eighe.
Ascending lower Coir' a' Ghrunndha:
During the ascent we stopped for maybe one or two minutes before again continuing on up
.A brief stop to admire the views:
Ascending towards the upper coire:
It was wonderful to reach the upper coire which I have not visited since 2009. Having ascended Sgurr nan Eag three times previously, I would not be carrying on with the majority of members up Sgurr nan Eag but would be 'Billy No Mates' setting off on my own to ascend the Munro Top, Sgurr Sgumain. Having previously ascended a round of Fionas, I am used to being 'Billy No Mates' on the hill.
Into the upper coire looking towards Sgurr Sgumain and Sgurr Alasdair:
Caisteal a' Garbh-choire and Sgurr nan Eag across Loch Coir' a' Ghrunnda:
To ascend Sgurr Sgumain from Coir' a'Ghrunnda, I followed a faint path leading up towards the South-East face of Sgurr Alasdair.
Looking back to Loch Coir' a' Ghrunnda during ascent:
During the ascent I passed some very rough, very sculpted brown rocks which looked quite different to the surrounding black gabbro. Not sure if it is some kind of pumice?
Looking towards Bealach Sgumain:
I next made my way towards a path in the scree leading to the base of the South-East face of Sgurr Alasdair. As I would be walking below a large rock face, I stopped to put on my helmet just in case any small stones came hurtling down towards me.
I then traversed below the South-East face towards Bealach Sgumain. This traverse is often undertaken to bypass the TD-gap when traversing the ridge. (Route 126 in SMC Skye Scrambles)
Traverse below the South-East face of Sgurr Alasdair:
Nice view of Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn, Sgurr nan Eag and beyond to Gars-bheinn:
Traversing below the South-East face of Sgurr Alasdair to reach Bealach Sgumain:
Until now, I had been walking in fairly benign conditions thanks to being sheltered from the wind in the bowl of the coire and by the wall of Sgurr Alasdair. I would soon however be sticking my head above the parapet and getting blasted by 40mph winds with gusts to 60mph. I will not lie, I was somewhat apprehensive.
View from just below Bealach Sgumain:
Before ascending onto the bealach, I visited a wonderful small cave which is sometimes used for bivvying. I loved the view from inside the cave!
Fantastic view from inside a small cave below Bealach Sgumain:
A short easy scramble got me up onto the bealach and provided great views looking towards Sgurr Dearg, the In Pin, the An Stac screes and Sgurr Mhic Choinnich which I ascended in mist last year.
From Bealach Sgumain you can go left to ascend Sgurr Sgumain or go right to ascend Sgurr Alasdair. The ascent of Sgurr Sgumain is a Grade 2/3 Scramble and the ascent of Sgurr Alasdair is a Grade 3 scramble.
I would be undertaking the Grade 2/3 scramble along the North-East ridge to the twin summit of Sgurr Sgumain (Route 107 SMC Skye Scrambles).
Looking towards Sgurr Dearg and the An Stac screes:
South-West ridge of Sgurr Alasdair from Bealach Sgumain:
I did nothing in haste, looked well to each step (and handhold) and was thinking what may be the end, cause it was damn windy and I was on my own. Before long I reached the first of the twin tops which was fairly broad and safe. I was however not sure which of the twin tops was highest so I also ascended the neighbouring top which was much more hands-on and involved stepping over a small window in the rock to reach the summit. Having ascended both tops there was no doubting that I had reached the summit.
I then reversed the scrambling back down from the second top before reversing my way down the ledges. I was taking even more care in descent and was really looking forward to getting back down below the bealach to get out of the wind.
Sgurr Sgumain summit:
Twin top of Sgurr Sgumain:
Once below the bealach and out of the wind, it was a pleasant walk below the face of Sgurr Alasdair before dropping back down to the lochan. During my descent I messaged my pal Graeme who was leading a number of members up Sgurr nan Eag and then on to Sgurr Dubh Mor and possibly also Sgurr Alasdair. Three members had had enough after Sgurr nan Eag so Graeme let me know they were descending and I waited for them at the lochan to accompany them down the coire.
View towards Sgurr Dubh Mor and Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn during descent back to Coir' a' Ghrunnda:
The following photo shows Sgurr Sgumain, the Munro Top I ascended.
Looking back to Sgurr Sgumain:
It was nice to spot the three members descending back to the lochan, highly visible thanks to their bright clothing unlike myself who almost always wears black.
Descending from Coir' a' Ghrunnda after a nice long break at the lochan:
Our timing was impeccable getting back to the Glen Brittle Hut around five minutes before a thunderous shower.
Before too long other members also made it back with successful ascents of Sgurr nan Eag, Sgurr Dubh Mor and Sgurr Alasdair but the climbers had less success on the TD-gap but come up with an excellent plan B visiting a seldom-visited Cuillin outlier.
A grand day despite the wind.