Hills: Beinn a' Chleibh and Ben Lui
Date: Friday 27th January 2023
Company: Just myself
Distance: 12.2km, Ascent: 1092m
Time: 5Hrs 45Mins
On Thusday afternoon I drove from home to Killin
where I spent the night at the Killin Hotel. Unfortunately, not much sleep
was had due to several drunken workmen, who were also staying at the hotel,
shouting both inside and outside the hotel pretty-much non-stop from when
the bar closed until 2am. However, following a good breakfast, which at least in part made up for the lack
of sleep, I drove from Killin to the Glen Lochy car park for an ascent of
Beinn a' Chleibh and Ben Lui.
I last ascended Ben Lui in February
2002 from Coninish, via Central Gully, with a couple of friends from the
Cairngorm Club. This was a great day out apart from ascending in low cloud
and lack of visibility and views.
Ascending Ben Lui via Central Gully
(2002):
At the
summit of Ben Lui (2002):
For an
ascent from Glen Lochy, having read numerous reports on WalkHighlands telling of
significant mud and bog, I was not enthusiastic about ascending this way but
thought it should be ok following a
hard frost. For the unbridged river crossing, as well a
needing a hard frost, I also wanted no rain and low temperatures the day
previous to avoid the river being in spate from rain and/or snow melt.
According to the weather forecasts all was good and I could expect 60%
cloud-free Munros
. 0%
cloud-free Munros would have been more accurate
.
Route:
From the
car park I followed the track leading down to the river with the railway
underpass immediately beyond.
Glen
Lochy car park sign:
While there was no bridge, a conveniently placed bench was used to change
out of my boots and into water shoes. After rolling-up my trousers I
commenced crossing the river.
Unbridged river crossing:
I
managed to cross the river without difficulty and then had to crouch down to
get under the railway pass. Beyond the underpass I dried off my feet,
changed back into my boots, and stashed my water shoes under a bush to
collect on my return.
About ten minutes later I reached a burn which
I crossed with the assistance of the rope which I found really useful for
balance as the stepping stones had a thin covering of ice.
Rope to
assist crossing the burn:
After
crossing the burn with the rope, I could see a gate at the opposite side of
another burn. I opted not to cross this other burn but to continue along the
path which led to a vehicle track running parallel to the "path".
Ascent
alongside the Eas Daimh:
On
reaching the vehicle track, I stopped to take a photo of the burn from the
bridge. The mudfest path commences from this point following the left bank
of this burn.
View
from bridge on vehicle track:
One of
several small waterfalls:
The
ascent via the track which is normally very muddy was to be honest not that
bad. Most of the mud and bog as hoped was frozen solid. I managed to reach
the gate near the top of the forest with boots almost completely dry. As
temperatures would be rising during the day, I was expecting to not get off
so lightly in descent.
Gate
providing access to the open hillside:
Once
through the gate, I followed a faint path up through Fionn Choirein leading
to the col between Ben Lui and Beinn a' Chleibh.
Fionn
Choirein:
Ascending Fionn Choirein towards the col between Ben Lui and Beinn a'
Chleibh:
The final section of track leading to the col had a section of hard neve to
cross, there was ice on the track and a cornice to ascend so I stopped to
put on crampons and get my ice axe out before proceeding onto the wide
ridge.
Approaching the col:
Once onto the ridge, I debated whether to first ascend Beinn a' Chleibh or
Ben Lui. I opted for Beinn a' Chleibh as it was the lower and easier of the
two. I was now walking in low cloud with minimal visibility. As I had my
crampons on, I stuck to the line of neve as I made my way up Beinn a'
Chleibh.
Ascending Beinn a' Chleibh:
I
visited a couple of cairns and used my GPS to confirm I was at the summit.
On reaching the summit, I took a quick photo and immediately returned back
to the col via the same route.
At the
summit of Beinn a' Chleibh:
During the descent, one of my big toes was really hurting (Hallux Limitus)
so I was in two minds as to whether to also ascend Ben Lui. I decided to put
up with the pain and go for it.
The ascent of Ben Lui was definitely
more challenging than Beinn a' Chleibh with around fifty metres visibility
at best. I knew Ben Lui was a very rocky hill so my navigation had to be
good as any paths were covered in snow and were not visible. I checked my
GPS several times during the ascent to confirm my altitude.
Approaching the summit of Ben Lui:
I first
visited the North-West top before continuing on to the summit.
Ben Lui
North-West Top:
As I
made my way to the summit, I stuck to walking on exposed rocks avoiding
walking on the cornice.
Corniced edge:
It was great to reach the
rime-covered summit cairn.
Ben Lui
summit:
From the
summit, I returned to the col via approximately the same route. During the
descent my iPhone switched itself off despite still showing over 50% power.
While I new this was a problem with older iPhones I was disappointed to find
this is still an ongoing issue with newer ones. This is good reason to not
rely solely on a mobile phone for navigation on the hill. I was also
carrying a paper map and compass, and an external battery pack for the phone
which I stopped to plug in.
Once back onto ice free ground, I stopped
to remove my crampons and put away my axe before returning down Fionn
Choirein towards the forest.
Looking
back to Beinn a' Chleibh from Fionn Choirein:
Looking
back to cloud-capped Ben Lui from Fionn Choirein:
As the
temperature was now above zero, the track down was a mudfest. I used my
walking poles to test out the ground as I progressed downhill. I made it
down with only slightly muddy feet.
Mudfest:
Mudfest:
On reaching the railway underpass, I stopped to collect my water shoes and
proceeded to just walk through the river in my boots as it was then only a
short distance back to the car and doing so would clean all the mud off my boots.
9 Munros remaining to complete Round 2 - hopefully a completion in 2023.